While most people think of Dubrovnik when it comes to dragons, it’s actually Ljubljana that is considered a possible dragon’s lair. According to mythological legend, Jason (and the Argonauts) slayed a dragon in a nearby swamp. The city symbol is also a dragon and you’ll see it on top of the Ljubljana Castle tower, in the city’s coat of arms, and on the Dragon Bridge. In Ljubljana, here be dragons…
Related: View all my Eat+Stay+Play travel guides here.
Aside from just being an all around amazing destination, Slovenia might not get the credit it deserves when travelers look to visit nearby exotic Croatia. When planning your Balkans travel itinerary, I implore you to also consider Ljubljana.
Know Before You Go
Slovenia is a part of the European Union and on the Euro. The language spoken is Slovene, but you’ll also find that most people speak English quite well. Ljubljana is very affordable with a beautiful old town to explore. Due to its Austrian influence, the city’s architecture is a mix of medieval and neoclassical styles.
Temperatures are really pleasant in late June. I was pretty comfortable in jeans, a tank top, and scarf. Sandals or sneakers are appropriate footwear, and sundresses are also a nice option. Bring a small travel umbrella (I use this one) because you could get an afternoon shower or two.
I loved how dog friendly Ljubljana is. When you’re away from your own fur babies, it’s always nice to meet other pooches and get in a head pat or two. You’ll see lots of Slovenians enjoying a family stroll. For a city of about 270,000 people, it feels much smaller and is very easy to navigate. I would say it’s probably the safest feeling European city we’ve been to.
Ljubljana is a great place to begin your Balkans trip. Expect to spend 2.5 days here with a day trip to Lake Bled built in.
Where to Eat
Robba – A great dinner spot with lots of outdoor seating. You can probably get a reservation the day of, but I’d recommend planning ahead. Sit outside under their huge umbrellas and enjoy great atmosphere and great food. The beef carpaccio is phenomenal! I’d also recommend the burrata, lamb goulash, and chicken “Ljubljana style.” Robba also has a nice selection of Slovenian wines. We loved Robba so much that we ate dinner here twice.
Vigò – A must for ice cream lovers. The line is worth the wait! Try the fresh mascarpone with nutella and chocolate sauce. I’m drooling just thinking about it! Grab a cone and go for a stroll.
Klobasarna – For a quick and easy lunch, stop by Klobasarna for Slovenian sausages with a fresh made roll, mustard, and a local beer. Seating is very limited but we found a high top table to stand and eat outside. It was perfect!
Abi Falafel – This place has possibly the best falafel and Middle Eastern food I’ve ever had. It’s fresh and so, so, so good. The portion sizes are very large but I wouldn’t expect to have leftovers. I practically wanted to lick my plate when I finished. It’s very casual and is great for lunch or dinner.
Vinoteka Movia – Attention wine lovers! This little wine bar is a really cool stop for an afternoon glass of wine and people watching. We tried orange wine for the first time here. No, it’s not made from oranges, although that might be kind of good. It’s called orange wine because of its color. It is made with white grapes but in red wine making style. There is longer skin contact than a rosé, and the wine produced is a light orange in color. It is dry not sweet and we enjoyed it thoroughly. You’ll see it on a lot of menus in Ljubljana but you can get more educated about it here at Movia. Slovenian wine is excellent and the staff is very happy to help you navigate their selection.
If cocktails are more your speed, try ordering a Hugo Spritz from any cafe, bar, or restaurant that offers one. I had not had this elderflower drink before and it became my go to for the rest of the trip, although the ones I had in Ljubljana were the best. It’s light and refreshing with mint and lime, and it’s just a little sweet. Perfect for a summer day.
Where to Stay
We opted for an apartment rental through Airbnb. You can book our exact apartment here. We chose this apartment for two main reasons – (1) location, and (2) balcony. It’s located right in old town with a view of the river and castle. Although the balcony is pretty small, it’s still some outdoor space and the apartment itself comfortably sleeps two people. It is a great value for the location. You are just steps away from enjoying a great meal along the river.
Where to Play
Take the funicular to the castle for a view of the city. If you’ve visited a lot of castles, this one may not be too exciting for you, but the views and photo opportunities are great. I recommend walking back down. There are a lot of steps but you’re walking through a nice shaded and wooded area.
Spend time perusing local artisan shops. Honey House is a great place to get honey products made by a local beekeeper. They have samples of edible honeys as well as soaps and candles, among other things. Did you know that honey really doesn’t have an expiration date? I learned that once it starts to crystalize in your cellar, just place it into a warm water bath. There are a lot of great shops with well-priced items to pop into, so spend some time shopping.
Along the Ljubljanica river you’ll find many outdoor cafes, restaurants, and bars. Make a pitstop and enjoy a beverage and some people watching. Ljubljana is one of the best places to do this. A large beer will average you around 3 euros.
Walk through old town and take lots of photographs. Ljubljana is a great city for playing photographer. There are so many colorful buildings, beautiful tree lined streets, and bridges. Don’t miss the Dragon Bridge for a selfie with one of the city’s mighty protectors!
A day trip to Lake Bled is a must from Ljubljana. Plan a full day in your schedule to go there. Be sure to check out our experience at Lake Bled here!
Have you been to Ljubljana? If so, let me know in the comments! For more videos and photos, check out my Instagram highlights for Slovenia.
xo – Erin
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