In Croatia there is a saying: “Fish should swim three times – first in the sea, second in olive oil, and third in wine.” Nowhere is this phrase more epitomized in the Croatian culture and daily life than it is in Split. From the lively harbor promenade, or riva as it is known in Italian, to the many konobas cooking up the daily catch, Split is alive with a buzz almost untainted by the tourist hoards found in other popular cities like Dubrovnik. This is Eat+Stay+Play: Split, Croatia…my travel guide to all things Split!
Related Post: Eat+Stay+Play: Rovinj
My favorite time of day in Split, is just after the sun has gone down and everyone is enjoying the cool evening breeze off the water. The riva is full of tourists and locals having dinner, strolling with gelato, or kicking a soccer ball around. It felt a little like Nice with its towering palm trees lining the boardwalk, but with slightly fewer people.
Getting to and Around Split
As Croatia doesn’t have a train system that we are used to when traveling throughout Europe, we hired a private transfer through Octopus Transfers to take us from Rovinj to Split. I highly recommend them for an easy journey and peace of mind. The drivers are professional, courteous, and very knowledgeable about each city and the history of Croatia.
Uber is available in Split and is very cheap and easy to use.
Where to Eat
DeListes – It doesn’t get more local and fresh than this. The owner is also your server and takes tremendous pride in offering the best daily catch from the sea. Even the menu was hand written on a piece of notebook paper because it changes daily. We enjoyed delicious hake, red mullet, and shrimp. It’s a very small place with only two tables outside, one of which we managed to get without a reservation. But as soon as we sat down, the other tables filled up. Located on a lively stretch of stone laid street, it’s a great spot for good food, a carafe of wine, and people watching.
Konoba Fetivi – A family-run restaurant in the Michelin Guide, Konoba Fetivi is a romantic dinner spot. The day’s fresh fish are brought to the table on a platter so you can select exactly which one the chef will prepare for you. Everything was delicious – you won’t leave here hungry. But even after a multi-course meal, we were ready for gelato. Reservations here are a must, and I recommend arriving early for wine at one of the outside tables.
Outfit details: Dress | Espadrille Wedges | Rattan Bag (purchased in Split, similar here)
Luka – The best gelato and sorbet in Split, hands down! The orange sorbet tasted like the oranges had just been picked that day. I’ve never had something so fresh and bright and delicious like that. It was the perfect treat to watch the sun go down over the water.
Where to Stay
We found a great Airbnb with a fantastic terrace with views of the old town and the west coast. Walking to the riva took only minutes, and the location is quiet. We had two bedrooms and a full kitchen which we took advantage of. My husband cooked a fabulous mediterranean chicken and we enjoyed it on the terrace with some Croatian rosé.
You can book our exact Airbnb here.
Where to Play
Old Town Split
The biggest attraction (and I mean that quite literally) is Diocletian’s Palace, an ancient palace built for the Roman emperor Diocletian. It makes up roughly half of Split’s old town and houses shops, restaurants and cafes now. Because it has become part of the modern landscape, you can actually be a part of the ruins. It feels like being a part of history, especially as it’s pretty well preserved.
Walking through Diocletian’s Palace can feel like being in a maze. One of the best things to do is simply wander. You never know what you might find around the next corner. There could be a modern cafe serving local beers or a ruin built by a Roman god some 2,000 years ago. The combination of new and old world is fascinating to witness.
Tip: Start your tour of the palace early in the day to help avoid the throngs of cruise ship travelers. The weather will also be much cooler.
If you’re lucky enough to come upon a group of Klapa singers, stop and listen. Klapa is a traditional form of Croatian a capella music. Their strong voices sing out and echo against the ancient stones. It is truly inspiring and a good reminder to stop and take it all in.
Spend some time walking the riva in the morning and evening. Stop at one of the many cafes for coffee or gelato. Watch the mega yachts come and go. Grab a snack of soparnik, a savory pie with a filling of Swiss chard, onions, and parsley. It’s the most famous specialty of the Dalmatian region.
Outfit details: Dress | Sandals | Tote | Sunglasses
Split Beaches
Split is also known for having some of the best beaches in Croatia. We prefer the ease and convenience of a beach club when it’s available. For one price you get a guaranteed spot, two chairs, umbrella, and there are food and drink options. In our hunt for a good beach club, we walked the entire west coast of Split (quite a nice walk, especially if you like seeing mega yachts up close) and came across Jadran Beach Bar. We stopped for an Aperol spritz and watched the locals jump into the ocean. It’s definitely a local hangout with lots of places to take a dip. There’s a slightly younger crowd of late teens to early twenty-somethings that we felt was not quite our speed.
Instead, we decided upon Mistral Beach Club at the Radisson Blu. This was the perfect spot for sunbathing, swimming, lunch and cocktails. We spent the day lounging in our chairs right at the rocky edge, with softly bumping club music in the background. Relaxation to the max. The food and service were both great, and there are plenty of safe places to enter the water.
Outfit details: Hat (similar here) | H&M Palm print bikini (similar here)
Markets
Take a stroll through the Green Market for local foods, flowers, and the usual touristy things like jewelry and clothing. Go early in the day as some shops sell out. I found a great rattan bag here, which ended up being a much better price than identical bags sold in Dubrovnik. Prices in this market are reasonable overall.
You can see more photos and videos of our Split experience on my Instagram in the Split highlights!
xo – Erin
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