One of the most fun parts of planning a Europe trip is figuring out where we can squeeze in a day trip. Crossing the Atlantic is most of the battle, so once you’re over there you should take advantage of lesser known or less-traveled places that can be easily reached from the bigger cities. We always work in a day trip, like our recent trip to Pula from Rovinj. A day trip to Mostar, a city in southern Bosnia and Herzegovina, was a must when we traveled to Dubrovnik.
Visiting Mostar is an experience unlike any I’ve ever had and one that I’ll never forget. Did I ever think I would go to Bosnia and Herzegovina in my lifetime? No. Am I glad I did? Absolutely. The city is beautiful and brimming with cultural authenticity. It was a great opportunity for us to experience European Muslim life, to enjoy a piping hot cup of Bosnian coffee while overlooking the rebuilt Stari Most Bridge, and meet kind people in a city that I’d only ever remembered from war torn news coverage in the 1990’s.
Related: Balkans Travel Itinerary
Getting to Mostar from Dubrovnik
It’s easy to take a day trip to Mostar from Dubrovnik. On the morning of our departure, our Airbnb host delivered homemade crepes filled with apricot jam, a bottle of homemade walnut liqueur, and dried sugared orange slices. We took the crepes with us and had breakfast in the car. It was such a nice surprise!
We hired a private car from Octopus Transfers to take us from Dubrovnik to Mostar. This is very advantageous as our driver could speak Croatian to the border patrol officers when we crossed into Bosnia. He handled our passports and we were on our way. He also knew the best border crossing to take, as some of them have long lines that can take hours to get through. We spent, at most, 30 minutes waiting in line.
After crossing into Bosnia and Herzegovina, we stopped for a few minutes at Hotel Stanica Ravno for a bathroom break and to have a cappuccino. Stanica Ravno is a former train station and is now a hotel with a beautiful little wine bar and outdoor area. Being able to stop here was another advantage to having private transportation.
Our driver was a wealth of information. As we drove across the countryside, he noted interesting things about each town or landscape. Like when we passed through Ljubinje, he told us it’s an area known for the best garlic in the world. You’ll see fresh garlic stands everywhere. In the next town of Stolac, you can see an early Christian necropolis on the side of the road. The larger the stone, the more important the person.
Once we arrived in Mostar, our driver dropped us off at a central meeting point close to the old bazaar. Walking the bazaar is a must. You’ll see all kinds of shops from leather goods (I bought a beautiful bag) to intricately designed teapots and lavender.
Eating in Mostar
Lunch
We had an incredible lunch at Tima-Irma, a family owned restaurant serving traditional local cuisine. It was one of the best meals on our trip. The dish to try is cevapi or ćevapčići, a grilled meat similar to a kabab. The portion size was huge and it came with a fresh salad of cucumber and tomatoes. A couple of local beers called Mostarsko Pivo were the perfect compliment.
Bosnian Coffee
In the afternoon, we sipped Bosnian coffee at an outdoor cafe. Cross the bridge and you’ll find several options with umbrellas or covered terraces. The views of the bridge are pretty spectacular. Even though it’s very hot in the summer, you’ll find locals sipping this piping hot beverage. And it’s meant to be sipped slowly. Drop a sugar cube into your cup then pour the coffee over it, letting it dissolve into an almost black silky pool. I could definitely use stronger coffee like this here at home.
If the heat gets to be too much, there are plenty of places to grab an ice cream or cold Coke.
What to Do in Mostar for the Day
Shop the Bazaar
Spend some time in the bazaar shops. After having Bosnian coffee, I was on the hunt for a hand-forged kettle to replicate the drink at home. We found a family owned coppersmith shop that’s been producing them for over a hundred years. There were so many coffee sets to choose from. I ended up selecting a simple copper kettle with the Stari Most bridge hammered into the design. I use it just about every day now.
See the Stari Most Bridge
After perusing the bazaar for a bit, make your way over to the Stari Most bridge. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is known as the most recognizable landmark in Bosnia. It’s truly breathtaking.
The original Stari Most bridge dated from the 16th century but was destroyed in 1993 during the Yugoslav wars. It was rebuilt and now tourists can watch (and give money) to local brave men who jump from it. My stomach did a little spin after seeing the first guy do it. It is amazing and terrifying at the same time.
Every day there are men who jump from the bridge into the Neretva river below. This is no small leap either. At its midpoint, it is at least 20 meters (approx. 65 feet) from the water, depending on the level of the river. Men have been jumping off this bridge for ages, just to impress local girls. There is even a worldwide cliff diving competition held here every year sponsored by Red Bull.
Visit a Mosque
Mostar is a great place to visit a mosque, especially if it’s your first time like it was for us. We visited the Karadozbeg Mosque, which is a smaller mosque with fewer tourists. We were welcomed by a friendly member of the mosque who provides you with information about the mosque’s history. He offered to take our photo and chatting with us about where we were from. Photography is allowed inside and women do not need to cover their heads. You will need to remove your shoes, however, and I made sure to wear a maxi dress to be respectful. I didn’t feel that this was any different from some of the Catholic churches we’ve been to in Italy, where women must cover their shoulders and legs.
Visiting this mosque was a totally new and humbling experience. Walking barefoot, feeling the soft carpets on my toes, and just taking in such a beautiful and peaceful space is something I’ll never forget. The original 1557 mosque did suffer damage during the war but has been rebuilt. This mosque also has the oldest book in Bosnia, a copy of the Quran from the 16th century.
Have you been to Mostar before? Is it on your travel bucket list?
Don’t forget to pin!
xo – Erin
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