Coming back to Lisbon felt like discovering it for the first time. I think it is an underrated city. Of course a warm sunny day, a glass of sangria, and a terrace overlooking orange tiled roofs and bright blue water doesn’t hurt. We first came to Lisbon 14 years ago and if it weren’t for the photos I wouldn’t remember much from that trip. It was the one and only time in 20 years of traveling that my husband and I got sick (excluding what happened to me in Lyon – but that doesn’t really count), and because of that the whole trip is a bit of a blur. My second visit to Lisbon taught me that it is best enjoyed slowly, through its golden light over colorful tiled facades, the hum of historic trams, and the taste of fresh pastéis de nata. In this Eat + Stay + Play guide, I’m sharing my favorite ways to experience the city: from long, leisurely meals and hidden wine bar corners, to artisan shops and sun-soaked viewpoints that make you want to linger just a little longer. Whether it’s your first visit or a return after many years away, consider this your curated invitation to fall in love with Lisbon.
Eating and Drinking in Lisbon
Manteigaria – This Lisbon institution came recommended by a local. If you don’t want to wait in the Tik-Tokkers line at Pastéis de Belem, I suggest coming here for a warm from the oven pastéis de nata. Grab your perfectly blistered and silky custard treat and enjoy it on a bench overlooking the water.
Carmo – A bit difficult to find, but this hidden gem is worth the view. It’s a great cocktail spot tucked beside the ruins of the Carmo Convent. Come here for a relaxed afternoon.
Bar Terraço de Santa Luzia – Perched above Alfama (and right by the Miradouro observation deck), Bar Terraco is one of Lisbon’s most romantic viewpoints. You’ll be treated to sweeping views of terracotta rooftops and the Tagus River. It’s a cozy spot for a quiet drink (I recommend the sangria).
Antù Alfama – I enjoyed a delicious dinner at this modern restaurant nestled in Alfama, one of Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods. The menu offers local seafood that is beautifully plated and rooted in Portuguese flavors. The shaded terrace is cozy and the staff are very friendly. Reservations recommended.
Carnal – We absolutely LOVED this place, with its modern take on Mexican cuisine. The tacos are deliciously inventive (we ordered a second round) and the atmosphere is a great balance of elegance and fun. When they say the sauce is spicy – believe them! Reservations recommended.
JNcQUOI House – Opulent and undeniably chic, the menu blends international influences with Portuguese flair. Start your experience at the bar with an expertly crafted cocktail then finish with freshly caught fish fileted tableside in this lavish Michelin-level setting.
Vinhos do Manuel – A cozy, unpretentious wine bar with a focus on Portuguese wines, thoughtfully selected and paired with simple, delicious bites. I was treated to a tasting of three wines before selecting my glass. A plate of cheese and bread bites was the perfect side. This is a great spot for a pre-dinner drink before dining at Antù Alfama (they are basically next door to each other).
Paleio Café – I was drawn inside by the chalkboard out front saying “80s vibes” but the coffee and Nutella cookie will keep me coming back. This fun and funky cafe is full of neighborhood charm and is a relaxing spot for a break while out exploring the city.
La Terrasse – After exploring the Castelo, pop into La Terrasse for lunch with a view. The food is nicely prepared but you’re really here for the sunny terrace, sangria, and view.
Antiga Wine Bar – The execution of the dishes here is as impressive as the extensive wine list. It’s a great place for lunch or dinner, with small plates ideal for sharing. It feels both cozy and refined and the service is excellent. No reservation needed.
Tapas 129 – I enjoyed a tapas lunch here of octopus salad and pimientos de padron with a crisp glass of Portuguese white wine. They have a couple of tables out front and it feels very “European” in that you can sit and sip and people watch in a very casual environment.
Rossio Gastrobar – This place has an amazing view over Praca Dom Pedro IV. It’s perfect for a chic drink and I also really enjoyed the lunch here.
Time Out Market – Just about every city has a foodhall and this is Lisbon’s spot catering to whatever you’re craving. You can taste a little bit of everything here, have a nice beer or cocktail, and even join in on some dancing.
Where to Stay in Lisbon
Áurea Museum – As with all my Eat + Stay + Play guides, the accommodations I mention are where we stayed on our trip. There are many lodging options available to you on either end of the cost spectrum. The location of Áurea Museum is great because you are perfectly situated by the water and Lisbon’s historic Alfama neighborhood. The rooms and amenities were nice and I enjoyed the breakfast every morning which was included in our stay. It is located in a unique building with cultural heritage dating back centuries. In the lobby you can see the hotel’s archeological exhibition. The hotel offers a free mini-tour every day.
Things to See & Do in Lisbon
Lisbon Cathedral – This is the city’s oldest church, dating from the 12th century. You can see the layers from Roman and Moorish times in the building’s construction. It is a powerful symbol of Lisbon’s resilience, having survived multiple earthquakes including the devastating earthquake of 1755.
Church of Saint Anthony of Lisbon – This smaller church is also worth stepping inside. It was built on the birthplace of Saint Anthony, the city’s patron saint. Its impressively ornate interior contrasts greatly with its modest exterior.
Casa dos Bicos – This is one of Lisbon’s most distinctive buildings with its striking diamond-shaped facade. It was partially destroyed in the 1755 earthquake but has since been restored. It now houses the José Saramago Foundation, where visitors can learn more about the life and work of one of the country’s most celebrated literary figures. He was the first Portuguese-language author to win the Nobel Prize in Literature.
Rua Augusta Arch – This impressive structure marks the grand entrance to Praça do Comércio and stands as a symbol of Lisbon’s rebirth after the 1755 earthquake.
Castelo de São Jorge – For sweeping views that stretch across Lisbon’s rooftops and river, make your way to the Castelo. I spent so much more time here than I thought I would. The views are spectacular but so are the grounds of the Castelo itself. You can climb high into the towers and imagine what Lisbon was like when it was first built as a Moorish fortress. You’ll also find many resident peacocks roaming the grounds.
Miradouro de Santa Luzia – Come early and avoid the crowds to enjoy what feels like a hidden terrace above Alfama. Beautiful bougainvillea and classic azulejo tiles perfectly frame the views of terracotta rooftops.
Carmo Archaeological Museum – Set within the ruins of a Gothic convent, this museum is one of Lisbon’s most atmospheric sites. The roof was lost in the 1755 earthquake and never rebuilt, leaving the structure open to the sky. It feels a bit eerie but also quite beautiful on a nice day.
Santa Justa Lift – Built in 1902, this lift that seems to just exist out of nowhere, reflects the engineering influence of the Eiffel era. It connects the Baixa with the higher Carmo district, however it was closed at the time of my visit. When open you can go to the top for sweeping views over the city’s historic center.
Other Things to Do in Lisbon
Lisbon’s is known for having amazing ceramics from decorative bowls to jewelry and everything in between. I recommend two places for a unique non-souvenir shop experience. The first is Atelier Porta 16, a tiny artist’s studio with beautiful hand-made ceramics at very reasonable prices. I found a cute pair of sardine earrings and a Christmas ornament here. The second place is Ceramicas na Linha, a larger studio with many ceramic objects of all kinds. They have an exceptionally large collection of ceramic dish ware.
If you love a good vintage shop I recommend A Outra Face da Lua. They have a very impressive selection of leather handbags and jackets, plus an array of accessories and vintage clothing of all kinds. A very cool vibe here as well.
Livraria Bertrand is the oldest continuously operating bookshop in the world (yes, they hold the Guinness World Record for it). I stopped in because I love a local indie bookstore and Livraria Bertrand was exactly what I hoped it would be. A wide variety of books are thoughtfully curated in an historic building, and they even have a nice selection of English language books.
Vintage tram lovers like me will love capturing Lisbon’s colorful trams as they come down winding or hilly streets. Some of my favorite spots for snapping photos are the streets of Alfama (definitely a postcard moment here – look for Tram 28), viewpoints like the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, and the Praça do Comércio.
Tinned fish shops are abundant here. Comur has a variety of tinned fish (not just sardines) in beautiful tins that make for great gifts or souvenirs.
I hope you’ve enjoyed my Eat + Stay + Play slow travel guide to Lisbon. I hope it’s inspired a little slow travel of your own. Have you been to Lisbon before? If so, let me know your must-see spots in the comments!
As always, thank you for reading!
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xo – Erin
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