I have yet to meet a Christmas market I don’t like, and after spending a weekend in Cologne, the Christmas markets there certainly live up to their spectacular reputation. If your idea of a good time is a day filled with shopping, drinking glüwein, ice skating, snacking, drinking more glüwein, more shopping, some more snacking, and more glüwein…you’re my people and this weekend guide to Christmas markets in Cologne, Germany is for you!
Watch my video of the Christmas markets here!
Have you been to Cologne before? This was our first time, having just visited Munich and Berlin in the past. I’ve always wanted to spend a weekend where the focus is squeezing as much Christmas market joy out of it as possible, and Cologne is the perfect destination to do that. With several Christmas markets sprinkled throughout the city, you certainly get all the Christmas feels! And you can bring your dog, which always adds to my enjoyment of whatever we are doing.
To get to Cologne we rented a car and drove with a friend and her dogs. We joked that it was like a clown car with three humans and three dogs, but the drive wasn’t that long from Amsterdam and the dogs were great little travelers. We also stopped on the way in Dusseldorf for lunch and to check out Christmas markets there. There are three markets – Altstadt Markt, Schadow-Markt, and the Handwerker-Markt where we spent most of our time. These markets were a little smaller than the ones in Cologne but really beautiful and the glüwein was flowing! I had a white glüwein that I didn’t even know existed and I now count myself among its fans. It was so good! After a delicious sausage on a roll, we were back on the road to Cologne.
We stayed at the Hilton Cologne because it is dog friendly and conveniently located near the Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom) which is the location of the biggest of all the Christmas markets. The cathedral itself is stunning and quite imposing in size. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site as well, so definitely take some time to see it. While we didn’t spend much time at the Hilton, I must commend them for how friendly and helpful the staff is. Lola received lots of attention and was treated like a regular hotel guest. So sweet!
Cologne Christmas Markets
I’ve listed the Christmas markets in the order in which we visited them. I suggest pinning them in Google maps so you can plan your route accordingly. The Hilton also offered a printed paper map.
Weihnachtsmarkt – Cathedral Christmas Market
As I mentioned, this is the largest of all the city markets. To say I was impressed is an understatement! This market is HUGE with tons of stalls selling food, trinkets, handmade toys, art, clothing…you name it! There is a massive Christmas tree in the middle covered in white twinkling lights that just takes your breath away. Not to mention you are at the base of the cathedral which adds to the grandiosity. Of course I had to purchase a cathedral ornament to add to our collection of travel ornaments.
It was at this market that I realized that glüwein has gotten much more interesting! In addition to the standard red glüwein (and the aforementioned white glüwein from earlier) they also have rosé glüwein (insert wide eyed emoji here)! Of course this required a taste test and it was good too. A little sweeter than the red and white varieties but delicious all the same.
Heinzel’s Wintermärchen – Cologne’s Old Town (Altstadt)
This market is a really fun one to see at night. There’s an ice skating rink as well as a curling area plus lights galore. The theme of this market are the Heinzels, little house elf types that legend says used to do the housework until they were run off by an inquisitive wife. Every year they return to the market to have fun. You’ll see them all over the stalls, drinking, eating, and even riding a ski lift! Grab a glüwein or beer at the Allgäuer Büble Alpe and enjoy! This market is also quite big, so give yourself time to really explore.
Markt der Engel – The Angel’s Market
Located in the Neumarkt in the center of Cologne, the Angel’s Market has a snowy white feel to it. Each market stall is white with a dark roof and lined with Christmas garland. There are woodland creatures throughout, including unicorns, as well as lots of real Christmas trees for the perfect photo backdrop. There are lots of crafts and gifts to shop, as well yummy food and drinks. Here they were serving a hot Aperol as well as the other types of glüwein, plus hot chocolate with rich whipped cream. I had spaetzle for the first time here too, and it was so good! Reminds me of gnocchi with a cream sauce and fried onions on top. Perfect fuel to keep shopping!
Nikolausdorf – The Nicholas Village Market
The location for this market couldn’t be more appropriate – Rudolfplatz! You’ll enter through a large castle-like structure called the Hahnentorburg, a restored 13th century gate that was part of the city wall. Once inside, it feels like you’re at Santa’s Bavarian vacation home with market stalls looking like half-timbered houses in a German country village. There are many reindeer grazing about, even on top of the buildings. There are lots of food and drink options and the cutest little glüwein mugs in the shape of St. Nick’s red boots! This is also the place to see both Santa and St. Nicholas, as both make in-person appearances in the evenings.
Christmas Market in the Stadtgarten
This market feels like the hippie market with boho finds in art, fashion, and jewelry. It is located in the Stadtgarten beer garden, underneath the trees and decorated with lights. It felt like entering a forest and was a fun but quick stop for, you guessed it, more glüwein!
The last market is the Harbour Christmas Market, but we didn’t get to it as it was a little out of the way. It is located on the banks of the Rhine next to the chocolate museum!
You would think that after all that glüwein and food we would be too full for a proper dinner. Think again my friends! We weren’t about to leave Cologne without having schnitzel in a proper brewpub. We enjoyed a great meal and endless kölsch at Max Stark. This place has a lively atmosphere with both locals and tourists, and the food was fantastic. I recommend a reservation or you’ll be waiting quite a while. But the kölsch will keep coming while you wait!
If you’re planning on hitting up some Christmas markets in Europe, I can’t recommend Germany enough. I can remember the markets in Munich being amazing, so I couldn’t wait to check out Cologne as well. It was magical and the perfect start to the holiday season!
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xo – Erin
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