Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France


Eat+Stay+Play Travel Guides, Europe, France / Wednesday, November 20th, 2024

Our weekend in Lyon was perfect (minus the ending 🤪 – I’ll get to that in a bit). A few weeks ago we decided that we wanted a weekend trip this fall before getting busy with all the holiday festivities. We knew that we didn’t want a trip that felt too scheduled or touristy. A place we could fly to within a couple hours and spend a long weekend eating great food, seeing a few sights, and basically just getting lost in. Lyon has been on our list for a while for its gastronomic allure and the fact that it’s not Paris. Of course you know my long love affair with France, as witnessed by our numerous trips there including many visits to its beautiful capital. But this time it felt good to branch out a little and explore a city that has its own unique identity while still scratching that Francophile itch of mine. This is my Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France travel guide!

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Where to Eat in Lyon

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse – Immediately upon arriving in Lyon, we dropped our bags at the hotel and went straight for Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse. If you’re fond of food markets and food halls then you’ll want to check it out. Here you can shop for the freshest ingredients for any dish from over 55 merchants – if we lived in Lyon we would be here at least once a week. They have everything from seafood to the finest steaks, cheese, chocolates, wine, bread, and anything you could want for an epic charcuterie board. You can also sit down at one of the many restaurants for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. We enjoyed an oyster and prawn lunch with a bottle of white wine at Chez Léon. Is there anything better than fresh French oysters? 

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Culina Hortus – We loved our experience at Culina Hortus, a 100% vegetarian restaurant from the Michelin Guide. Even if you’re a proud carnivore you will not be disappointed here. The menu is highly creative and after 9 courses you certainly do not leave hungry. I especially loved the Pomme de terre et sarasson and the Brioche perdue. This restaurant is recognized for its biodynamic wine list and commitment to seasonal ingredients. Reservations required.

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Le Grand Réfectoire – Also included in the Michelin Guide is Le Grand Réfectoire, a brasserie located in the Grand Hôtel Dieu. The building is over 250 years old with the dining room in the former nuns’ refectory, a large space with leaded glass windows and high vaulted ceilings. The menu is simple but we enjoyed a light lunch here. Reservations are recommended. 

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

L’Atelier des Augustins – I’m including this restaurant as we did have reservations here, but unfortunately I became quite ill Saturday evening (this is the not-so-fun ending I referred to at the beginning of this post). I haven’t been that sick in quite some time and would never have been able to make dinner. Sadly, we had to cancel our reservation at this Michelin star restaurant and I spent the evening in bed while my husband grabbed a burger at Five Guys by himself. He did say it was rather good, though. 😂I’m much better now and can thankfully say that has never happened to me in the 17 years and 31 countries we’ve traveled to. I definitely want to make it back to Lyon for dinner here. After calling to explain our reason for canceling, they did not even charge us for the deposit which was very generous of them. Reservations required.

Where to Stay in Lyon

Hôtel Le Royal Lyon – We loved our stay here and would recommend it. It’s an M Gallery hotel ideally located right on Place Bellecour. I loved the stately decor and view from our room of the square. The staff is very friendly and helpful and it’s dog friendly!

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Lyon Sights and Things To Do

There are some truly impressive cathedrals and churches in Lyon. I always enjoy stepping inside to just marvel at their architectural beauty and how they continue to stand the test of time. Eglise Saint Nizier is a Gothic style Catholic church (construction began in the 14th century).

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste is in the heart of old Lyon and took over three centuries to complete from 1175 to 1480. It is in both a Romanesque and Gothic style and has a 16th century astronomical clock. Outside you can visit the archeological gardens with the remains of religious buildings formerly on site, the oldest of which dates to the 4th century. Inside the sunlight produces a stunning rainbow effect through the stained glass windows.

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière sits high above Lyon on “the hill which prays” and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It was consecrated in 1896 and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We took the funicular up the hill and were treated with a stunning view over all of Lyon. If the weather is good I recommend going around sunset. Inside the basilica is an incredible display of mosaic tile work like nothing I’ve ever seen. There are six enormous mural mosaics featuring two themes – “Mary and the Church” and “Mary in the History of France.”

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

A short walk from The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière is the ancient Roman theater – Théâtre Gallo Romain. It is the oldest theater in Roman Gaul and one of the largest with a finished capacity of 10,000 spectators. Construction began around 15 BC and it is still used for cultural events today. 

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

On Place des Terreaux you can see a fountain sculpted by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi who is also known for designing the Statue of Liberty. The Fontaine Bartholdi was originally unveiled for the Exposition Universelle of 1889 and depicts France as a woman seated on a chariot controlling four horses who represent the four great rivers of France. It is a massive statue weighing in at 21 tons and worth a visit!

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

While grabbing a drink at Place des Terreaux, gaze upon the Hôtel de Ville de Lyon which is the city hall. It is one of the largest historic buildings in the city. Its construction honored King Louis XIV’s birthday (The Sun King) and the council held their first meeting here in 1652.

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

For my bookshop loving friends, there are several independent bookstores in Lyon. I particularly loved Le Bal des Ardents, although you’ll need to be well-versed in the French language to read anything here. But don’t let that stop you. You’ll know you’ve arrived here by the book arch around the door. Inside are numerous shelves stacked high, rolling library style ladders, and vaulted ceilings. Definitely one of the best bookshops I’ve been to.

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Lastly, you know I’m not going to surpass a great yarn shop. Pompon Girl is a really fun yarn shop that caters equally to crocheters and knitters with a nice selection of premium yarns plus books and other notions. They are very nice and helpful inside too! I came home with a lovely crochet book, a crochet kit, and some cute “handmade” labels. 

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

Eat + Stay + Play: Lyon, France | Cathedrals & Cafes Travel Guide

I hope you’ve enjoyed this Eat + Stay + Play travel guide to Lyon, France! It was such a great weekend and I would definitely come back. You can find more of my Eat + Stay + Play travel guides here! 

As always thanks for stopping by and reading!

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xo – Erin

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