If someone asked you, “Where is your happy place?”, what would you tell them? Is it a mountain retreat or a seaside escape? Is it a big city or a small town? Or is it simply your own backyard? While I’ll admit to having many happy places (and an affinity for sharing them with you here), I really feel I am most at peace when I’m near the water. There are many destinations that could fit this bill but the French Riviera is one that not only fits the bill but also checks every other box on my ultimate relaxing getaway list. We just spent a long weekend in Villefranche-sur-Mer, one of the pastel-hued villages dotting the The Côte d’Azur. After first visiting several years ago, it has held a special place in our hearts. From where to stay, what to see and do, and the best spots for great food, this is my Eat + Stay + Play travel guide to Villefranche-sur-Mer! If you’re planning a trip to the south of France, I hope you find it helpful! I will have two subsequent posts about the other towns we visited, so stay tuned!

Tip: You can find all of my Eat + Stay + Play travel guides for Europe here!

Why Villefranche-sur-Mer?

Aside from everything I’m recommending in this post, Villefranche-sur-Mer is simply magical. There is a relaxed yet fun vibe everywhere you look. Cafe terraces line the harbor with a front row seat to the comings and goings of sailboats and yachts amidst a stunning view of the Cap Ferrat peninsula. Gentle waves wash over a pebbly beach full of sunbathers on colorful beach towels. Pastel painted homes with red tile roofs and wooden shutters line windy cobblestone streets. Did you know it was a filming location for Alfred Hitchcock’s 1955 romantic thriller To Catch a Thief? It’s hard not to pretend you’re Grace Kelly being swept off your feet by a dashing Cary Grant! Villefranche-sur-Mer will dazzle you.

Where to Eat

La Caravelle – Do you ever walk by the bustling sidewalk tables of a restaurant, hear the laughter and clinking glasses, smell the aroma of delicious food, and think to yourself, now that looks perfect. La Caravelle is one of those places. The outdoor tables line both sides of the street, flanked by the restaurant’s interior and their impressive wine cellar. The street is tiered so each table has a view of the sea, perfectly framed by the orange and yellow facades of Villefranche-sur-Mer’s signature Mediterranean style. The food is a lovely mix of traditional French cuisine and Mediterranean flavors. We loved the escargot (they come a dozen at a time!), the risotto with gambas was delicious, and the bone-in pork chop was executed perfectly! New for the season are tempura zucchini flowers, which we just loved! I recommend a reservation for dinner.

La Mère Germaine – For a bit of an old school restaurant experience, I’d recommend a reservation here. They have many tables lining the harbor as well as a lacquered wood dining room that feels like the interior of a yacht. Crisp white tablecloths adorn each table and waiters wear bowties. The service was outstanding and the food was really good. They have a selection of fresh fish daily that will be presented to you on a giant silver platter. While this can be a little intimidating, seafood enthusiasts will love this place. I started with the seafood ceviche (so fresh and citrusy) and Paul had the salmon and tuna sashimi, also very good. For mains we had seared sea bream with a crunchy fennel salad and linguine with vongole, both excellent. La Mère Germaine has been serving incredible meals since 1938 and is also in the Michelin Guide.

Bakaro – For an easy sandwich, breakfast, or coffee I highly recommend this little spot. We enjoyed a lovely petit dejeuner of freshly squeezed orange juice, croissant, and coffee for only €6 before setting out on foot each day. They also have great focaccia sandwiches and Aperol Spritz! We saw many locals coming in for their daily baguettes, too. They were right around the corner from our hotel, which made it even better. The staff here is also very friendly and they have a few outdoor tables with umbrellas on a cute street.

Where to Stay

I first laid eyes on the Welcome Hotel when we visited Villefranche-sur-Mer several years ago and pinched myself that we were able to stay here on our return trip. Its name embodies its spirit as it is quite welcoming indeed. The friendly staff and well-appointed room (with an incredible view) made our stay so enjoyable. Having a private terrace overlooking the harbor was the best part! We enjoyed a bottle of rosé each evening and watched the boats and people milling about. The Welcome Hotel is located a stone’s throw from the many cafes lining the water, including the restaurants I’ve recommended in this post. I would definitely stay here again without a doubt.

Where to Play

The best way to explore Villefranche-sur-Mer is simply to set out on foot. Get lost on the meandering streets. Stop for a glass of wine or an ice cream. The point of your stay here is to experience the joie de vivre! There are many shops you can pop into selling soaps, perfume, clothing, accessories, and local art. You’ll find yourself drawn back down to the harbor, and if the weather is warm enough be sure to hit the beach.

The Rue Obscure is a medieval site worth checking out. It was once a military road built in the 14th century for soldiers to traverse the town easily. Over time buildings were erected on top and now it is more of a tunnel than a street. It’s 130 meters long and an historic monument.

The Saint-Pierre Chapel is decorated inside and out by French poet and artist Jean Cocteau. It’s dedicated to the Apostle Peter, the patron saint of fishermen.

On Saturdays you can visit the farmers’ market in Jardin François Binon. Flowers, produce, clothing, and more surround the perimeter of this lush garden space.

Villefranche-sur-Mer is ideally located for visiting other nearby riviera towns, some within a nice walking distance. We spent a day in both Eze and Beaulieu-sur-Mer. I’ll have more on those places in a future post!

Have you been to Villefranche-sur-Mer before?

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xo – Erin

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