As part of our recent tour of the Scottish Highlands, we spent Easter weekend in the city of Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital. As far as cities go, Edinburgh is definitely now one of my favorites. With so much to offer, it made sense to put together a little weekend travel guide. So many of you reached out over Instagram saying how Edinburgh is on your list or that you have a trip planned soon. As with my other Eat + Stay + Play travel guides, I hope this one is just as useful! Here are my tips for a fun weekend in Edinburgh!
A Quick About Edinburgh
This was my first time to Edinburgh and I already want to come back. It’s very walkable with what feels like an outdoor museum all around you. Edinburgh is physically stunning with its mix of medieval architecture in Old Town and Georgian neoclassical buildings in New Town. Together, Old Town and New Town are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The combination of these two historic areas give the city so much of its unique character. Harry Potter fans will recognize a similarity to Hogwarts as J.K. Rowling penned much of the Wizarding World here. Edinburgh has been the capital of Scotland since the 15th century and is the second most visited destination in the UK. It has a rather hilly landscape and is surrounded by land mass formations from early volcanic and glacial activity. I can also say from personal experience that Edinburgh is home to some of the absolute most friendly people we’ve ever met. Cafes and pubs are full of such locals and it’s easy to feel like you belong here. You can easily spend a weekend or longer exploring Edinburgh.
Where to Eat (and Drink) in Edinburgh
As with all my guides, these recommendations are mere suggestions based on positive first-hand experience. Here are the places we visited:
The Dome – This is a great stop for drinks. We enjoyed some local beers and whisky under the original Georgian glass dome of the former banking hall. There is also a brasserie here called The Grill Room but we just stopped by for happy hour. The Dome has a really neat atmosphere as it retains all the character of its past. Built in 1775, this building was originally the old Physician’s Hall and was later purchased by The Commercial Bank of Scotland in 1843. It was later sold by the bank and The Dome opened in 1996. It feels quite swanky with details like brass doorknobs, high ceilings, mosaic tile floor, marble columns and moldings throughout. The circular bar is located directly beneath the glass dome. It’s definitely a fun place to grab a drink or bite to eat.
Badger & Co. – Another fun place to grab a drink, the bar here is Wind in the Willows-inspired. Funky artwork and a television playing clips from original series, The Wind In The Willows, complete the feel. I hadn’t seen that show in ages and so this little cocktail bar felt a bit nostalgic. We just stopped in for a pint and some chips. I recommend a reservation if you’re dining here.
The Bon Vivant – We had our first meal here and really enjoyed it. The atmosphere is lively and cozy and the food was delicious. The picanha steak with artichoke purée was so good. I had the wild mushroom risotto which was also done perfectly. Reservations recommended.
Code The Court Hostel – There is a pretty good little coffee shop inside this hostel. Without even realizing it was a hostel, we stopped in for a cappuccino to go and it was one of the best coffees we had actually. It’s located right by the Unicorn-topped Mercat Cross in Parliament Square next to St.Giles’ Cathedral.
The Auld Hundred – Part of the fun of being in Scotland is enjoying the myriad of traditional pubs. We came to The Auld Hundred for a pint and ended up staying for a cozy dinner. The fish and chips were great and the service is super friendly.
The Mitre Bar – Located right by our hotel on The Royal Mile, this was one of my favorite pubs. Lots of great local beers on tap in a really cozy and lively atmosphere. We really enjoyed the live Scottish folk music on Sunday evening here as well.
The Ivy – We have eaten at The Ivy in London and booked a last minute table here. It is a small chain but feels unique and the food is always consistently good. This location overlooks St. Andrew Square. I recommend reservations for a nice dinner or brunch.
The Queen’s Arms – We had our first ever Sunday roast here and it was great. A traditional British Sunday roast consists of roasted meat, roasted potatoes, mashed potatoes, Yorkshire pudding, gravy, and a variety of vegetables like carrots or peas. There are different versions of the Sunday roast but that is basically how it works. This was my first ever Sunday roast and I loved it! The pub is located down below street level and feels like someone’s home library. There are even some well-stocked bookcases and reading lamps around. This place is everything a neighborhood pub should be. Cozy, friendly, delicious food and drink, and a bit of wear and tear on it that gives it that comfortable feeling like when you’ve worn in your favorite pair of loafers. Reservations for Sunday roast recommended.
Where to Stay in Edinburgh
A city like Edinburgh is going to have many options available for lodging. As you know we typically prefer an apartment or AirBnb situation but this time we had some hotel points to use, and if you’re not taking advantage of frequent travel perks like that then what are you even doing? We booked the Hilton Edinburgh Carlton and found it to be a fine accommodation. It’s clean and modern with a helpful and friendly staff, and the location can’t be beat. Right off the corner of The Royal Mile, this hotel is located within a quick and easy walk to just about everything.
Things to Do in Edinburgh (Where to Play)
As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, we incorporated a tour of the Scottish Highlands on this trip (read all about that here). We spent two full days back to back outside of Edinburgh, but we still found enough time to enjoy the city too. Here’s what we checked out:
The Royal Mile – There’s a lot to see and do along this stretch of historic road. All along are shops, restaurants, cafes, pubs, and more. Plenty of tourist shops, tartan plaid and tweed outlets, and a few street performers.
Princes Street & Gardens – This is a beautiful public park in the center of Edinburgh. We had some really lovely weather while there and enjoyed just taking in the sun and people watching. You can’t miss the Scott Monument, a Victorian Gothic structure dedicated to Scottish author Sir Walter Scott. A stature of Scott seated next to his dog is inside.
Grassmarket – Once a site for public executions, now it’s a hot spot for nightlife! Lots of pubs and bars here with a mix of college students and tourists.
Edinburgh Castle – Perched high atop Castle Rock, the castle dates from the 11th century and was a royal residence until 1633. It is recommended to get your tickets ahead of time to avoid long lines. We walked up to see it one morning but did not go inside as we had seen Stirling Castle as part of our Highlands tour. Edinburgh Castle is really impressive and a must if you’re passionate about castles.
Greyfriars Kirkyard – This is one of the most famous graveyards in the world, so definitely take a stroll through it. It’s quite peaceful and really pretty with lots of grass and trees. It is a bit hilly as well so you have some nice views throughout. One of its most famous residents resting in peace is Tom Riddell. Little did he know he would become one of the most famous names in children’s literature – or should I say “he who must not be named.” Harry Potter enthusiasts will enjoy hunting for his gravestone. Also here is the grave of Greyfriars Bobby.
Greyfriars Bobby – Bobby was a Skye Terrier who loyally guarded the grave of his master for 14 years. He won over the hearts of everyone in town, with locals looking after him with food and other necessities. He has a statue dedicated to him outside the Greyfriars Bobby Pub and you can pay homage to him at his grave in Greyfriars Kirkyard with a stick or two.
Balmoral Hotel – This luxury hotel is worth a pop-in. If you’re so inclined you can also book the J.K. Rowling Suite where the author completed the last Harry Potter book. On the door is an owl door knocker and in the room is her writing desk. I especially enjoyed seeing the doorman dressed in his best kilt.
The Writer’s Museum – Speaking of writers, The Writer’s Museum is dedicated to the lives of three major Scottish authors – Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson.
Topping & Company Booksellers – Fellow booklovers, pin this place! Room after room of thoughtfully curated genres await you. I picked up three books by Scottish authors or with stories set in Edinburgh. I love visiting bookstores when we travel and this one is great. You can even request a complimentary pot of tea or coffee while you browse.
St. Giles’ Cathedral – This cathedral is warmly open to all and has been a working church for over 900 years. According to the legend, Giles spent many years in solitude in the forest with his only companion being his beloved red deer. The king’s hunters shot an arrow at the deer but wounded Giles instead. He later became the patron saint of people with disabilities. On our visit we were treated to beautiful music by a singer and piano player.
National Galleries of Scotland – This museum is home to international and Scottish works of art. It is free to go inside.
I hope you’ve enjoyed my Eat + Stay + Play: Weekend in Edinburgh travel guide! We had the most amazing time for our first time here. I look forward to returning to Edinburgh and exploring more of Scotland soon! Have you been to Edinburgh before?
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xo – Erin
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