Part of the fun of traveling to a big city like Paris for a week is using it as a home base for day trips to other parts of France. With an easy to navigate train system, you have the opportunity to experience so much more than you otherwise would have. We decided to visit Rouen and Chartres (and also a trip to Épernay for Champagne- read all about that here). With each city being approximately 1 to 1.5 hours by train from Paris, Rouen and Chartres make for two easy day trips.
What to Do in Rouen
Rouen is the larger of these two cities and is a great place for fans and historians of Joan of Arc, the patron saint of France. She was burned here in 1431 in Rouen’s old market square. There is now a modern church dedicated to her which sits right next to the ruins of the 15th century church that was destroyed during the French Revolution.
Rouen is also home to the oldest restaurant in France – La Couronne. Julia Child ate her first French meal here in 1948 which led to her journey to cook French food and share it with Americans.
As you enter the medieval city center, you’ll see the Great Clock (Gros Horloge) still ticking away since 1528. There’s also the Palace of Justice, a beautiful example of Gothic architecture. Rouen is the capital of Normandy and its parliament is housed here.
You can’t miss the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Rouen, another stunning example of a Gothic church. Take in its ornate exterior and then head inside for an unexpected light and bright interior. This is due to much of the original stained glass being replaced with clear glass because of all the damage it has sustained over the years, most recently WWII bombings. The tomb of King Richard the Lionheart is also inside.
If you’re looking for a lively shaded square for a delicious outdoor lunch, try Bistrot des Carmes. We enjoyed our ham and cheese croquettes and rosé while doing some people watching. For dessert, go to Dame Cakes and sit in their back garden. They have a large selection of all kinds of pastries and cakes, plus hot and cold drinks in a cute tea shop environment. The gâteau à l’orange (orange cake) was so good!
What to Do in Chartres
Chartres is a beautiful mid-sized town and an easy train ride away. I think it was actually only about an hour. The big draw here is the Gothic cathedral. Since Notre Dame in Paris is currently closed, the cathedral in Chartres is your best look at one of Europe’s examples of a Gothic cathedral. It is impressive! Definitely spend some time appreciating the outside before heading in. There are some benches around the cathedral that make for a comfortable spot to sit and just look up!
Inside, you’ll find the torn veil supposedly worn by Mary when she gave birth to Jesus. It was acquired by the church in 876 and when the whole place burned to the ground in 1194, the veil was miraculously unharmed. It was rebuilt extremely fast and dedicated in 1260. The church is officially called Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres, one of hundreds of Notre Dame churches throughout France dedicated to Mary, or “our lady” (in French – Notre Dame) like the one in Rouen.
Spend some time walking through town. It’s very pedestrian friendly and has lots of little shops and cafes in timber-framed buildings. Grab lunch at one of the outdoor cafes overlooking the cathedral. We opted for Café Bleu and had a simple lunch of two croque monsieurs and rosé. The croque monsieur here was the best we had on our trip!
Chartres is a relaxing day trip where you don’t feel any sort of rush to do anything. Just sitting at a cafe admiring the cathedral, having a delicious meal, and people watching was a big part of the fun for me. I enjoyed it a bit more than Rouen because of the leisurely pace. Maybe I just really like long lunches… 😉
For more Paris planning tips, you might like the articles below! Or, click here for all my Paris posts!
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xo – Erin
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