Paris is always a good idea…even in the rain. Because let’s just all agree that a rainy day in Paris is still better than a sunny day in a lot of places. 😉 Although we have been to Paris a few times before, this trip was extra special because we got to bring our little furry love muffin, Lola! It’s so great living in Amsterdam and being able to hop on a train with her. I’ve always dreamed about strolling down a Parisian street with my best girl and this past weekend we made it happen! A weekend in Paris was just what we all needed!

In today’s post, I’ll be taking you through our Paris weekend itinerary plus giving you some dog mom tips for traveling with your fur baby.

If you’re looking for even more Paris travel tips, be sure to check out my Eat+Stay+Play Travel Guides:

Paris Summer Travel Guide

Paris Winter Travel Guide

You can also watch my Reels for video tours of this trip:

Weekend in Paris: Day One Reel

Weekend in Paris: Day Two Reel

Weekend in Paris: Day Three Reel

Getting to Paris and Our Airbnb

We took a Thalys train from Amsterdam Centraal to Gare du Nord in Paris. The ride was around three hours and the train was comfortable and cool. I was so proud of how well Lola did on the train. She pretty much just laid at my feet, partially under my seat, for the entire trip. She is on the smaller side for a lab which made this easier. A very sweet friend of mine brought over some train snacks the day before we left (part of a very sweet birthday gift to me), so we had a nice little picnic of crackers, hummus, and rosé! 

Dog mom tip: When traveling on Thalys (or any French train that allows dogs), your dog must be leashed and muzzled. We found that Lola’s Gentle Leader sufficed as a muzzle, although I had an actual muzzle from Amazon in my bag just in case. The Thalys website instructs you to purchase a ticket for your dog once you are on board, however we tried this and the train manager told us not to worry about it. We didn’t give Lola anything to eat or drink while on board and we made sure she relieved herself beforehand to avoid any accidents.

We arrived at our Airbnb to meet our host. She was so nice and offered Lola some water right away. The apartment is located in the heart of The Marais, one of my favorite neighborhoods in Paris. If you like that bohemian vibe, you will love this Airbnb and the neighborhood it’s in. The views out your windows are quintessentially Parisian, and there are many bars and cafés all around.

Dog mom tip: When booking a pet friendly Airbnb, remember to bring things with you to accommodate your dog as they would be in your own home without disturbing or causing damage to the Airbnb. For example, Lola is used to laying on our couch at home so I bring a king size flat sheet to cover the couch. We would also use this sheet at night on the bed. It was easy to fold up and put in my suitcase. Don’t forget dog bowls for food and water (I use collapsible silicone bowls for easy transport and cleaning). Because it was going to be a rainy weekend, I packed a “dog towel” just for Lola’s – paws and legs get pretty dirty when the streets are wet. I find that European Airbnbs don’t have a plethora of bath towels for you, and I wouldn’t want to get them dirty in that way anyway.

Paris Day 1

By the time we finished checking into our Airbnb, it was nearing 4pm. The first day was more of a half day and just a day to relax and get oriented with our neighborhood (meaning find the essentials like the nearest grocery store and wine shop 😉). We started with a walk over to Notre Dame, passing by the Hôtel de Ville and crossing the Seine. They have made some progress on the cathedral but there is still much to be done. But she’s always worth seeing and grabbing a photo. We took Lola along the Seine where the bouquinistes are set up. I love checking out all the vintage books, magazines, and posters for sale. 

We meandered over to Place des Vosges for some wine and frites at Cafe Hugo, one of our favorite spots for a Parisian café experience. It was especially nice because the terrace is covered by a brick and stone archway, making it cozy and warm on a wet and cold rainy day. 

Dog mom tip: Dogs are pretty much allowed on all outdoor restaurant terraces in Paris, however, I make it a practice to ask before sitting at a table. Don’t expect water or anything special for your dog, but if they offer, be gracious and say, Merci beaucoup!

We enjoyed staying in for dinner. Lola was a little tired (ok, we all were) and the weather was getting really rainy. Paul went downstairs and brought back dinner from Panozzi, a Sicilian street food place. This was a surprise find and the food was really good. The arancini are the size of your fist! This is part of what I like about staying in an Airbnb – having a cozy night in cooking or grabbing takeaway food and just lounging in your pjs. Getting extra snuggle time with Lola was a bonus!

Paris Day 2

We began the day with a Parisian café breakfast of cappuccinos and croissants. We found a great little place called Café Rive Droite by the Les Halles. It had a covered terrace and they even offered water for Lola. After waiting out the rain for a bit and enjoying two croissants each (go big or go home), we walked over to Musée du Louvre and Palais Royal. It amazed me how much more crowded it was than when we were here last summer.

Dog mom tip: Palais Royal is a great spot to grab photos of your dog, as they are allowed inside the gated area with the black and white columns. Feel free to pose how you like, even standing or sitting on the columns. Treats come in handy here! 

Lunch was a special treat from Boutique yam’Tcha, an easy walk from the Louvre. If you watch Chef’s Table on Netflix then you’ve seen this place as well as their Michelin star restaurant yam’Tcha. Boutique yam’Tcha is a fun food experience. You simply walk up to their window and order an assortment of bao buns and a beverage, and you can sit on their sidewalk benches to enjoy it all. The owner, Chi Wah Chan, even took our order, and he was just the nicest! These bao buns were probably the best bao buns I’ve ever had. You have to try their signature bao filled with Stilton blue cheese and Amarena cherries. It’s to die for. We also tried the pork, shrimp, and vegetable bao. Everything was incredibly delicious! 

We enjoyed another dinner in our Airbnb, this time with a meal from Eataly. We grabbed a couple of focaccia pizzas and some charcuterie plus a fantastic little tiramisu for dessert. More snuggle time with Lola made for the perfect end to day two!

Paris Day 3

Amazingly on our last full day in Paris, the sun came out! We enjoyed a relaxing Nespresso in our apartment and then set out for the Eiffel Tower. It’s a decent walk from The Marais, but the metro gets you there quickly.

Dog mom tip: Dogs are allowed on the Paris metro and you must buy a ticket for them. We just bought 3 of the same fare each time we rode it, and it’s very inexpensive. Lola has experience riding the trams in Amsterdam as well as other trains so we felt confident bringing her. Be aware that the metro can be very crowded, so you may want to avoid it with your dog if they struggle with tight spaces and lots of people.

The Eiffel Tower is a great place to visit with your dog. The Champ de Mars is the grassy public space that stretches out from it and you and your dog can frolic around all you like. You’ll see lots of people picnicking or just taking photos. We snapped some really cute photos of Lola in her beret. Plan to spend some time here, especially if you’ve never seen the Eiffel Tower in person before. It’s quite humbling and a beautiful spot to relax.

After this we grabbed lunch at a favorite place – FTG (Frenchie To Go). We loved our experience here last time and we were definitely craving it again. For a casual and absolutely delicious meal, FTG is a must. Quality ingredients combined with perfect execution makes this place a standout. I had the fried fish sandwich and Paul had the fried chicken sandwich – both amazing! We sat outside at the bar top and ended up meeting the owner, Greg Marchand, who also happens to be the chef at their Michelin star sister restaurant, Frenchie Rue du Nil. He was so nice and really loved meeting Lola. It was pretty surreal meeting two Chef’s Table chefs on this trip.

Next we did a little birthday shopping at Polène. I love these bags and purchased the Numero Un Nano in tan textured leather. I also have the Numero Un full size, which I love (see it in this post), but I wanted a smaller all leather version in a really versatile color. Paul was the best husband ever for waiting 45 minutes just to get into the store. These bags are popular!

Dog mom tip: Dogs are allowed inside some retail stores in Paris. Always ask before just walking in with your dog. Polène allowed Lola to come inside with us while I shopped.

Back at the Airbnb we enjoyed a little Aperitif before our dinner reservation at La Jacobine. This is another favorite restaurant of ours in Paris. You must make a reservation and they only take them by phone. I love how old school this is. For the best French comfort food (personally I love the escargot here), La Jacobine is the spot. Get a bottle of wine and settle in for a long and memorable dinner. The staff here is exceptionally nice, too.

Dog mom tip: La Jacobine does not have a terrace, so you’ll have to leave your fur baby at home. By this time in the trip, Lola was familiar with our Airbnb and we felt more comfortable leaving her alone (as opposed to the first night). It was important to give her time to adjust to her temporary surroundings.

It was such a nice weather night that I was finally able to put on a more Parisian outfit and live out my French girl dreams. 😉 

Outfit details: Cole Haan Trench Coat | Black Turtleneck | Ankle-length denim | Black Leather Booties | Polène Bag 

Leaving Paris

We spent the morning packing and straightening up the Airbnb. We made one last café stop on our way to Gare du Nord and bid au revoir to Paris. 

One thing I noticed about this trip to Paris as opposed to others is that I wasn’t as sad to leave. Usually I’m very sad to go home, but this time I was excited to be coming home to Amsterdam. As much as I love Paris, I missed the charm and smaller feel of Amsterdam. I missed our little neighborhood with its quiet tree-lined streets. I missed our apartment with Bella’s garden. I missed Amsterdam more than I thought, which tells me that I’ve become settled here and this is home. Home sweet Amsterdam home.

I hope you found this “weekend in Paris” post helpful, especially if you are planning to travel with your dog! Leave me a question in the comments!

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xo – Erin

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