Eat + Stay + Play: West Texas (Marfa, Marathon, Big Bend)


Eat+Stay+Play Travel Guides, North America, Texas, Travel / Tuesday, December 8th, 2020

Wow, it feels good to be back on the blog this week! With the onset of the holiday season, we’ve been busy getting the house decorated, shopping for and wrapping gifts, and even taking some time for a couple of road trips (hopefully you follow me on Instagram for all the latest). Now that I’m back home and mostly done with my gift list, I couldn’t wait to write my Eat + Stay + Play guide to West Texas! 

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog

West Texas has always been on my travel bucket list. Living in a state that is just so incredibly big, it takes time to see all that it has to offer. A couple weeks ago we packed up the dogs and drove 5.5 hours to Marathon, where we rented an amazing pet-friendly Airbnb and made our way to Marfa, Big Bend, and everywhere in between, dodging the occasional tumbleweed here and there.

Be sure to check out all my Eat+Stay+Play travel guides and Texas travel guides under the Travel menu above or go here!

Know Before You Go

There is a whole lot of nothing out in West Texas, and I mean that in the best possible way. Miles and miles of road dissect a pretty sparse desert landscape. If you want to get away from it all, West Texas is the destination for you. That being said, plan to fill your gas tank when an opportunity presents itself. While you’ll be driving quite a bit, the scenery makes the drive worth it. We opted to take US Highway 90 on the way there (it’s a really pretty drive and takes a bit longer) and I10 on the way home.

West Texas towns like Marfa and Marathon are small, therefore keep in mind that restaurants and shops might not be open when you are there. Check online or call, especially for updated COVID hours.

Don’t forget to take pictures. The changes in topography, mountain ranges, and wildlife you’ll see are spectacular. It’s really a unique part of Texas that I honestly had no idea was so stunning.

Where To Eat

As you know, one of the big things we like about renting an Airbnb is the ease with which Paul can do some cooking. But we did make room on our trip to try some of West Texas’ best restaurants.

Haby’s Alsatian Bakery – Ok, while not in West Texas, this was the first stop on our road trip and it deserves a shout out. Located in Castroville, it was an easy stop outside of San Antonio for some breakfast pastries. The ham and cheese croissants are so good, and their donuts remind me of funnel cake, which I love. They also have really cute cookies decorated like all kinds of things. Paul got me a cactus cookie, which was very on brand for this trip. 😉

The French Grocer – This general store in Marathon has a great deli. We had a tasty lunch of sandwiches and pasta salad when we arrived. They have a nice outdoor area in the back for socially distanced dining, and they are very dog-friendly! They also have a variety of groceries and supplies for picnics and hiking.

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog
We loved The French Grocer! Great outdoor area, really friendly, and the perfect spot to bring your dog!

12 Gage Restaurant and White Buffalo Bar at the Gage Hotel – We enjoyed pre-dinner cocktails at the White Buffalo Bar on their outdoor patio. The Prickly Pear Pura Vida Margarita was so good! Dinner at the 12 Gage Restaurant was also a great experience. The oyster nachos were so delicious that we ordered a second plate! 

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog

V6 Coffee Bar – I grabbed a quick coffee here before our drive to Marfa. They have a small casual menu for breakfast and lunch, too. It’s part of the Gage Hotel and located right on Main Street.

The Water Stop – We loved having lunch here in Marfa. They have a large dog-friendly patio and great food! Burgers and fries, spicy fried chicken sandwiches, and salads round out the menu. I would definitely eat here again. Paul’s green chili burger was amazing!

Where To Stay

There are some great options for lodging depending on your preferences. From hotels and roadside inns to vintage Airstreams and even yurts and teepees, there are some pretty cool places to stay. We wanted to bring our girls with us, so we chose this dog-friendly Airbnb in Marathon. We had the entire home to ourselves with an incredible view. We loved having a fire pit and watching the wildlife come to our pond. It was really comfortable and cozy, and Paul made us some really good meals! We will book this place again! 

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog
Beautiful sunset with cotton candy skies as seen from our Airbnb patio.

Where To Play

Make sure to allow drive time to see everything on your list! We spent a total of four nights in West Texas and were able to see and do quite a bit. It was easy to find safe, socially distanced activities. I’ve listed everything we were able to do, but you should make plans for a return trip (like we are) to see even more.

Marathon

Star gazing – Marathon is known for having the darkest and starriest night sky in the 48 contiguous continental states. Pack your telescope! 

The Gage Hotel – Even if you don’t stay here, it’s worth a peek inside. The Gage is a historic hotel that first opened in 1927 and is pet friendly. The architectural style and covered wagon out front make for some great photos.

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog

Gage Gardens – This garden park is also pet friendly and features a beautifully manicured park spanning 27 acres. The girls loved the walking trail and it’s the perfect spot for a picnic under the trees. It’s definitely an oasis in the desert.

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog
Lola and Bella weren’t sure about this guy in Gage Gardens. 😉
West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog
There are some great spots for photos in Gage Gardens.
West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog
The “Chicken House” on the way to Gage Gardens.
West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog
Our Airbnb is near the Marathon Motel, a unique establishment that has been open since 1940.

Big Bend

We are not experienced hikers, but still wanted to see Big Bend. It is truly an unbelievable and breathtaking place. I’ll be doing a separate post all about our time here with tips for visiting with your dog. If you’re going all the way to West Texas, you can’t skip Big Bend.

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog
We loved the Santa Elena Canyon Scenic Overlook.

Terlingua

Terlingua Ghost Town – There’s not a whole lot to see here but The Starlight Theatre is worth a trip for food, drinks, and live music.

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog

Alpine

Kokernot Field – On the way to Marfa from Marathon, stop by Kokernot Field for a glimpse at what Texas Monthly calls “the Yankee Stadium of Texas.” This historic ballpark opened in 1947 and even featured an exhibition in 1951 between Satchel Paige’s St. Louis Browns and the Chicago White Sox. I would love to come back in the summer to see an Alpine Cowboys game.

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog

Marfa

We were there on a Tuesday when not much was open. I think if you’re planning on seeing more of Marfa, make the trip on a weekend. But we found a great lunch spot (see above) and several good photo ops.

Hotel Paisano – The Hotel Paisano opened in 1930 and is a place to see! I love historic hotels with interesting history and this one is gorgeous.

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog

Marfa Public Radio – This non-profit, listener supported radio station is located in a unique building.

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog

Galleries and shops – Unfortunately for our timing, many of the galleries and shops were closed. But that just means we need to come back!

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog

Art Installations

There are some interesting art illustrations along your West Texas drive that are fun photo ops. These are the ones we made a point to visit:

Tiny Target – Located between Marathon and Alpine on Highway 90. It popped up in 2016 and so far no one has come forward to claim it. There’s even a shopping cart out front.

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog

Giant Marfa Mural – Located five miles outside Marfa on Highway 90 on the Wyatt Ranch. The classic movie Giant starring James Dean, Elizabeth Taylor, and Rock Hudson is illustrated in larger-than-life style by muralist John Cerney. Giant was James Dean’s last film and parts of the movie were filmed on the ranch.

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog
Country music plays from a speaker concealed within rocks nearby.

Stardust Motel Sign – Located in Marfa on Highway 90. The hotel itself is long gone, but the sign still remains. It’s a favorite subject among photographers and feels a little eerie. I definitely wanted a photo here.

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog

Prada Marfa – Technically located in Valentine, this art installation is the most well-known. Be prepared to wait your turn for a photo. We experienced quite a dust storm on our visit. This is not an actual Prada store but it does feature real Prada shoes and bags picked and provided by Miuccia Prada from the 2005 fall/winter collection.

West Texas Travel Guide | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog
You can see the approaching dust storm in the distance behind me.

There is so much to see in West Texas. You can do as much or as little as you like. I even took up watercolor painting while we were there for the first time. Maybe I’ll do a post on that, too. I loved our trip and can’t believe it’s taken us this long to final drive out there.

Have you been out to West Texas? If so, tell me your favorite spots so I can plan a return trip! As always, thank you so much for reading!

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West Texas Travel Guide: Marfa, Marathon, Big Bend and More | Cathedrals & Cafes Blog

xo – Erin

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6 Replies to “Eat + Stay + Play: West Texas (Marfa, Marathon, Big Bend)”

  1. Planning a trip in mid March, and this and your Big Bend guide are a nice resource. Great pictures. So we’ve booked staying at the Gage and eating at 12 Gauge, also a night time star party at the McDonald Observatory. Looking forward to adding other things. I like the tip about bringing some folding chairs for a picnic in Big Bend or where ever.

    1. Hi Larry! I’m so glad you found my post and found it helpful! It’s so beautiful out there, that I found bringing a picnic just about everywhere you go to be fun and impromptu. 🙂 The observatory is on my list for next time. I hope you have great weather! Enjoy your trip – it sounds lovely! -Erin

  2. Thank you for the wonderful guide. It was so helpful on my last trip. I’ve been to Marfa, but hadn’t really explored the vast area surrounding it. Next time you should check out The Lincoln Marfa. It’s the cutest little boutique hotel created and run by a local couple. We rented #12 right next to the pool with a kitchen and a fire pit. They also have an insane 1950s bomb shelter you can rent by the night. http://www.thelincolnmarfa.com

    1. Hi Cindy! The Lincoln looks amazing! That bomb shelter sounds so cool, too! I’m glad that my guide was helpful for you! 🙂

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