Hi, friends! I hope your Thanksgiving week was a good one. I made a major dent in our Christmas shopping list and took a nice break away from social media (mostly). It was so nice to be a little absent from the Internet for a few days.
I did share our Napa Valley adventures on Instagram stories, and I created a highlight today in case you missed it. And if you’re heading to Napa soon, check out my packing list.
Today’s Eat+Stay+Play is all about Napa Valley and the surrounding wine country. It’s everything we sipped and saw in three and a half days. This was our first time to the region and it was an excellent time to go. Harvest is pretty much over so there are fewer crowds, and the vineyards still have a gorgeous golden hue. The weather cooperated all but one day, with comfortably cool and sunny days along with chilly nights. If wine by the fire is something you enjoy, then head to Napa in November.
Christmas decorations are also up, which makes it feel that much more festive. We accidentally attended the Yountville community Christmas celebration one evening. Local wineries were there to provide samples of their wines, plus there was food and live performances and a tree lighting. It was really neat to be a part of.
Access all my Eat+Stay+Play travel guides here!
Know Before You Go
As a Napa first-timer, I have 5 basic tips or things to know before you go:
1 Pace yourself – There’s no reason to try and squeeze in as many wineries as possible in a day. Honestly, two is more than enough. I spoke with some people who told me that they barely remembered their Napa trip because they had too much wine, having visited 6-7 wineries in a single day. That’s just not fun and totally defeats the point in my opinion. If you’re going to get drunk, you might as well do that at home. We found that two wineries at the most allowed for us to really explore the winery, get to know the people, and savor their wines. We were also able to enjoy a leisurely lunch and a nice dinner each day. It was so relaxing.
2 Try smaller vineyards – Keep reading for how our experience at a very large producing winery compared to a smaller producer. I’m not saying that the “big guys” aren’t worth a visit or their wines aren’t good, but we found the smaller boutique wineries to be a much more intimate experience. Rather than joining a large cattle call of tourists, we preferred the family feel of the smaller wineries.
3 Use a car service or Uber – We had a rental car but also relied on Uber quite a bit, especially if we were drinking. Just be smart and be safe. Uber was very reliable and works great when it’s just the two of you.
4 Make reservations in advance – You’ll need a reservation to taste wine just about everywhere, so book early. I had no problems booking all of our tastings online a few weeks ago. Also, restaurants get very busy so you’ll need a reservation for most of them as well. In late November, you can probably get away with a walk-in to most places, but I like to make sure we have a table.
5 Visit the Tourist Information (T.I.) centers – We popped into the T.I. of each small town and were warmly greeted by locals who are excited to share their city with you. We received great tips on where to eat and even a two for one wine tasting. They have valuable information to share and can’t wait to visit with you, so be sure to take advantage of these.
Where to Eat
Bistro Don Giovanni (Napa) – I love this place for simple reasons. The food is fantastic, the atmosphere feels like you’re dining in someone’s welcoming home, it’s a favorite among locals, and the service is great. I loved Bistro Don Giovanni so much that I was excited to eat there twice on this trip. We cancelled our reservation for a restaurant in Sonoma due to inclement weather, so we came back here and they were able to seat us. Our first experience was on the outdoor patio on a gorgeous night while our second experience was in the cozy main dining room. Either way you can’t go wrong. The beef carpaccio and pollo alla diavola were the highlights as was the mandilli pasta, a dish of silky thin sheets of pasta in a genovese pesto. I wish I had a Bistro Don Giovanni here in San Antonio!
Oakville Grocery (Oakville) – This is a really fun stop for an easy lunch. I loved the general store feel of the inside, where you’ll find a deli counter preparing fresh-made sandwiches and muffalettas. We took ours outside to the patio with a half bottle of California wine and enjoyed the mountainous views around us. During warmer months, this is a great stop for picnic provisions, too.
Mustards Grill (Napa) – We enjoyed a lively dinner here (the wine list is titled, “Way Too Many Wines”), and the food was excellent. If I had to choose, I would go back to Bistro Don Giovanni first, but Mustards is a Napa Valley landmark with upscale comfort food. I had the ribs and they did not disappoint.
Bistro Jeanty (Yountville) – This is a place that we will definitely come back to next time. I’d like to do a full dinner here. We stopped in for a happy hour of champagne, white wine, escargot, and oysters. The escargot were every bit as good as I’ve had in France, and the decor and overall ambience of Bistro Jeanty is completely adorable. You feel like you’re in a Parisan cafe and the service is excellent.
Napa General Store (Napa) – For a hearty breakfast before your wine tastings, grab a table here. I had the best waffle of my life (not exaggerating) and my husband put down a huge breakfast of eggs, sausage, potatoes, and toast – and he NEVER eats breakfast. It’s really good! I also love that the coffee is served in those thick ceramic diner style mugs. Is it just me or does coffee taste better in those things?
Bella Bakery & Cafe (Calistoga) – While exploring Calistoga, we grabbed a quick coffee and pastry here at the recommendation from the tourist information center. I love supporting locally owned businesses and Bella is a great little stop for a quick breakfast or sweet treat.
Sam’s Social Club (Calistoga) – On a nice day, the patio at Sam’s is a must! There are plenty of seats and fire pits nestled at the base of a hill, so it feels exceptionally cozy. Sam’s also feels really hip. The bar inside is gorgeous and at night is packed, no doubt. We had lunch here and enjoyed their menu of elevated basics like hamburgers and deviled eggs (both were awesome). I got the fish tacos which were also very good.
Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch (St. Helena) – This is another place I would come back to on my next visit. Arrive a little earlier than your reservation so you can enjoy the fireplace on the outdoor patio. They have a great menu of bar bites and wine but also a good craft beer selection. The food is also exceptionally good. I had a pork chop that was done perfectly. There is also a general store to visit and beautiful grounds with flowers and a vintage farm truck, so it’s a great place to take some fun photos.
Where to Stay
We opted to stay in Napa but would consider Yountville next time. We booked this Embassy Suites and were perfectly comfortable. Unlike any other Embassy Suites, this one is a little unique and very much represents the feel of Napa Valley, especially with the central courtyard that features a pond with swans and ducks as well as a thatched roof building and water wheel. The evening happy hour is a nice amenity this time of year because you can enjoy a glass of wine by one of the fire pits. Or bring your own bottle down. As Hilton Diamond members, the hotel gave us a bottle of wine upon check in.
Where to Play (and drink wine)
This goes without saying, but obviously you’re in Napa for one main reason and that reason is WINE! Here is the list of the wineries in the order we visited them, and my thoughts about our experience.
Regusci Winery – We really enjoyed this family owned and operated vineyard. They have a beautiful outdoor area with a great view and some pretty great wines as well. We bought half a case of their rose, which is quite good and very much like a French rose. Also, if you’re a dog lover you’ll enjoy being greeted by Rascal who stands guard at the door.
Hill Family Estate – This vineyard has a tasting room in Yountville and we stopped in for a glass of wine before dinner. We ended up tasting several of their wines with their friendly staff. We loved the wine here. They are also dog friendly, which is always a plus.
Huge Bear Wines – Look for the old Calistoga National Bank building in downtown Calistoga and you’ll be at Huge Bear Wines. You can’t miss this place. The building is painted a sea green color and the interior two-story tasting room, which used to be the bank lobby, still has all the original details like decorative ceiling mouldings. The wines here are great as well. Definitely worth a stop.
Sterling Vineyards – I must say this experience was a disappointment. The gondola ride was fun and they have spectacular views, but the tasting experience is about as impersonal as it gets. It feels like an amusement park and the wines are just so-so. For a first-time visitor it’s ok, but I think once is enough.
Castello di Amorosa – We enjoyed walking around the grounds and seeing this impressive castle, but because of its nature, you’ll find a lot of families with kids all over this place. I still don’t understand why you’d bring children on your wine vacation (I mean they just look so bored), but if you want to grab some fun photos this is a good place to do it. We didn’t even try the wines, because we really just wanted to get away from the Disneyland feel of it.
Ehlers Estate – This place was incredible! We had the absolute best experience tasting and getting an impromptu tour of the grounds and facility. We didn’t have a reservation as we had planned to stay longer at the above two wineries, but we called and Jenny, the wine club and events coordinator, welcomed us anyway. We chatted at length with her and tasted just about every wine they had, including some library wines. It was difficult to choose a favorite among the bottles, as each was uniquely delicious. Ehlers is also certified 100% organic. The tasting room is stunning without being stuffy. You just want to curl up on one of their sofas for hours. We ended up joining the wine club here, which is interesting because you get one big allocation once a year as opposed to several smaller allocations. I’m so glad we went here and I highly recommend it!
Shadybrook Estate Winery at Rapp Ranch – For a truly unique experience, Shadybrook Estate combines wine tasting with a trail ride through the vineyard. This was my favorite day! We started in the stables getting to know the horses and just spending time with them. We arrived early and there were no other patrons there, so we had the whole stable to ourselves. It was pretty magical. As a horse lover I couldn’t get enough. We rode through the vines and stopped along the way to take pictures and appreciate the Coombsville vineyard landscape. The horses were so sweet and easy to ride. A beautiful wine tasting followed with one of the prettiest and elaborate charcuterie boards I’ve ever seen. Our sweet hostess was a pleasure to visit with and the wines were also great. I would come back here time and again.
Munselle Vineyards – It’s a beautiful drive up to Geyserville for a visit to Munselle Vineyards. Five generations of this family have been farming grapes, and even dairy cattle and prunes. They started producing wines 130 years ago, then stepped away from wine making to focus on farming, and in 1972 they returned to producing excellent wines in the Alexander Valley. We had the greatest privilege of visiting with Bret Munselle who welcomed us with a glass of sauvignon blanc and then drove us through his family’s vineyards. We saw acres and acres of vines that grow grapes for some of Napa Valley’s top wineries, discussing the terroir and learning his family’s history. It was so interesting to understand the winemaking industry from the farming side of it, especially given the recent fires the area has suffered. Bret was so kind to give us such a personal tour, even amidst the downpour of cold rain we were getting. His two dogs rode along in the back of the truck, loving every minute of it. Back in the office, we tasted the other Munselle vintages, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel (my favorite), and Chardonnay. Bret and his family are doing amazing things and the wines are a testament to their passion for producing the highest quality fruit. Thank you, Bret! We loved our visit and look forward to returning!
Another favorite day of mine was spent exploring Yountville. This is a great way to spend the day, have lunch, shop, etc. It’s such a beautiful town with lots of things to do and see. There are plenty of photo spots along the way as well. Stop in for a glass of wine or take advantage of happy hour like we did at Bistro Jeanty. You can easily walk the length of the main downtown area and spend a good part of the day here.
Outfit details: Sweater dress | Boots (similar here)| Tory Burch crossbody (sold out, but similar here)
Downtown Calistoga is also a nice town to spend some time in. We enjoyed strolling along the main street and spending most of our morning here before our lunch reservation at Sam’s Social Club. Calistoga is known for its healing hot springs, which we will have to try next time. The entire Napa Valley area is so beautiful that it’s worth a little exploration outside of just visiting wineries and tasting rooms. There are plenty of places to snap a photo in the vineyards, too.
Outfit details: Sweater | Jeans | Boots (sold out but similar here)
Have you been to Napa Valley? If you have other winery suggestions please let me know in the comments! I know this won’t be our only trip. Be sure to check out my Instagram stories highlight – NAPA – for more photos and videos of our trip!
Cheers!
xo – Erin
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